#21
(02-27-2024, 03:41 AM)RayClem Wrote:
(02-26-2024, 09:37 PM)Tedolph Wrote: Only 6-8 shaves from a straight razor before it needs to be touched up on stones? 

That is not even one day of shaving for an Italian barber. 

Respectfully, something is wrong.

What is wrong is that I have a super tough beard and super sensitive skin.

I have to hone my razors on a 20K Suehiro stone (0.5 micron) and then polish the edges using abrasives as fine as 0.1 micron to make the blade provide a comfortable shave. Many people can shave with an edge honed on a 8 K Norton stone or Coticule, but such a blade rips my stubble out rather than cutting it. 

Because the edge is so thin, it is very fragile and requires frequent maintenance. Stropping on fabric and leather alone is not sufficient to maintain the razor in a condition where it will provide a comfortable shave. Those who live around the Mediterranean sea do not typically have skin as sensitive as mine. I cannot even face lather without brush irritation. I would never consider a shave provided by an Italian barber.

BTW: My favorite DE blades are BIC Chrome Platinum, Gillette Nacet and 7 O'Clock Super Platinum black. They are both super sharp and smooth. I can get four good shaves using them. I can only get two good shaves with Feather blades; after that the edge deteriorates to the point that on the third shave ithe blade feels harsh on my skin. Thus, I consider getting 6-8 shaves from a straight razor to be quite remarkable in comparison.

Wow. Well, I can see that we have very different situations. As you suggest, I have a Mediterranean beard and complexion. My beard is tough, but my skin is oily and not that sensitive. I can get by fine with an edge sharpened on a 12K finishing stone. I could probably get by with an 8K edge, although I wouldn't enjoy it. One thing I do notice that has the greatest effect on how much tugging I get against the grain is not my edge, it is what soap I use. Some are just much better at softening my beard than others and that seems to make the greatest difference. Even among tallow soaps there is a significant difference, and it is not proportional to price. The old Fine Accoutrements tallow based soap and believe it or not Arko were the best at softening my beard. Many so called "artisan" soaps have been disappointments. For many years, I have been very satisfied with Cella. It is relatively cheap and does a better job softening my beard than many other more expensive tallow soaps, and all glycerine soaps I have tried.

Best of luck to you.
#22

Member
Chicago Suburbs
Tedolph

As you surmise, our situations are quite different.

I tried Arko one time, but never again. It left my skin horribly dry and irritated. It was a definite fail for me. Some folks love Arko, but I am not one of them.

Proraso rates a C minus in performance for me. While I can use it, I do not enjoy the shave.

I have never used Cella, so I cannot comment specifically, but it contains coconut oil which dries my skin and leaves it uncomfortable. I avoid soaps with coconut oil.
'
If you have oily skin, I can understand why many artisan soaps do not work for you. Many tend to focus on providing skin moisturization and conditioning. While my skin is quite dry and appreciates what artisan soaps provide, oily skin does not need it.

As they say, different strokes for different folks. There are nearly 8 billion people in the world. If half of them are men, there are 4 billion different combinations of male skin and beard types. That is why we have such a wide variety of razors, blades, soaps, etc.
#23
(02-27-2024, 05:55 PM)RayClem Wrote: Tedolph

As you surmise, our situations are quite different.

I tried Arko one time, but never again. It left my skin horribly dry and irritated. It was a definite fail for me. Some folks love Arko, but I am not one of them.

Proraso rates a C minus in performance for me. While I can use it, I do not enjoy the shave.

I have never used Cella, so I cannot comment specifically, but it contains coconut oil which dries my skin and leaves it uncomfortable. I avoid soaps with coconut oil.
'
If you have oily skin, I can understand why many artisan soaps do not work for you. Many tend to focus on providing skin moisturization and conditioning. While my skin is quite dry and appreciates what artisan soaps provide, oily skin does not need it.

As they say, different strokes for different folks. There are nearly 8 billion people in the world. If half of them are men, there are 4 billion different combinations of male skin and beard types. That is why we have such a wide variety of razors, blades, soaps, etc.

Our experiences with Arko and Proraso are identical. Arko was very drying and Proraso was a big disappointment performance wise. Proraso is the only soap I have ever given away. I do not find Cella to be drying at all. For me, it has one of the best post shave feels of all the soaps I have used. Where I find many artisan soaps lacking (compared to Cella, Fine Accoutrements old tallow formula and some others) ) is that they are not as good softening the beard. Honestly ,I feel for you having a tough beard (which I have) but also having to deal with sensitive skin. I am sure that makes getting a close, comfortable shave a real challenge.
#24
(This post was last modified: 02-28-2024, 12:51 PM by Gasman. Edited 1 time in total.)
I see i fat fingered the number. Victor has 224 shaves in the same edge and counting.
Now back to your regular schedules program.

I find I can use Arko when traveling but just for the convenience. When I travel I have nobody to impress so a shave is just to knock down the stubble.
From the shade of the big mountain, Pike's Peak.
Jerry...
#25

Member
Quebec, Canada
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2024, 02:39 AM by fblais. Edited 1 time in total.)
Hi Dave.
I got my Weck today, and it has the correct guard.
Stupid question: the guard gets between the blade and skin (in front) when shaving, or behind?
Newbee question of course...  
Thanks in advance!

(02-24-2024, 01:39 AM)Dave in KY Wrote:
(02-24-2024, 01:36 AM)fblais Wrote: Is this what’s called a sextoblade?

Yes, the guards are different. You want this one
[Image: mWu9bFQ.jpg]

NOT this one

[Image: J8Sre3t.jpg]
--
Ce message provient du Québec!  Happy2
#26

Just Here for the Shaves
Williamsburg, KY
(03-07-2024, 02:38 AM)fblais Wrote: Hi Dave.
I got my Weck today, and it has the correct guard.
Stupid question: the guard gets between the blade and skin (in front) when shaving, or behind?
Newbee question of course...   
Thanks in advance!

(02-24-2024, 01:39 AM)Dave in KY Wrote:
(02-24-2024, 01:36 AM)fblais Wrote: Is this what’s called a sextoblade?

Yes, the guards are different. You want this one
[Image: mWu9bFQ.jpg]

NOT this one

[Image: J8Sre3t.jpg]
It will only cut with you holding it correctly. You need to flip the guard when you switch sides. You'll know you have it correct if it's cutting hair.

fblais and Rebus Knebus like this post
This post by Dave in KY mentions views and opinions expressed and makes it known that they are "those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of DFS or any other member, agency, organization, employer or company."  Big Grin
#27

Member
Quebec, Canada
Ok, thanks David!

Dave in KY likes this post
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Ce message provient du Québec!  Happy2
#28

Member
Quebec, Canada
Good night al.
I bought another shaver, here it is along with my Weck.
It's probably more an hair shaper more than a razor.
Is there one of its guard that could be appropriate for shaving please?
Thanks!
[Image: iZARtyM.png]
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Ce message provient du Québec!  Happy2


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